The Cellars of Tsinandali
Telavi
Tsinandali is located just outside of Telavi, the capital town of the tourist region of Kakheti. The town of Telavi has some fortresses and vineyards and is located on high ground supposedly offering a majestic view of the Caucasus Mountains. Unfortunately, the region was almost totally foggy during our visit and visibility was limited to just a few hundred meters from the town so we decided to proceed directly to Tsinandali.
Tsinandali
Tsinandali is the name of the village itself but the name is also equated to the estate of the 19th-century aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze (1786–1846). The estate is also sometimes referred to as the “Tsinandali Gardens” because of its sprawling beautifully landscaped surroundings. But most of all, the estate was made famous by Chavchavadze for the fine vintages made at his estate winery.
History has it that Alexander Chavchavadze, after inheriting this village from his father, Prince Garsevan, refurbished the estate, constructed a palace and built a huge garden in 1835. It was also in this place where Chavchavadze built Georgia’s oldest and largest winery where he combined European and centuries-long Georgian winemaking traditions. The place gained further dramatic fame when, in 1854, the place was raided by Shamil, a charismatic Muslim leader who pillaged the estate and kidnapped the wife, children and relatives of Alexander’s son, Prince David Chavchavadze. It was only in 1855, after complicated negotiations, that the hostages were released in exchange for Shamil’s captive son Jamal al-Din and 40,000 silver rubles. The place became the property of the state in 1917 and was converted into a museum in 1947.
Ancient Wine Cellars
The visit started with a tour of the main building, Chavchavadze’s former residence, which was now a museum. The story about the place was told by a fluent guide as she showed us various rooms and assorted memorabilia showing the Chavchavadze family’s affluence and fondness for art during their time. And then it was time for visit the wine cellars located at the back part of the sprawling compound.
Huge restoration work was underway at the winery section and the tour route was not yet well organized so we just found our way to the various sections, along a line of huge oak barrels, inside large empty rooms which I imagine was full of wine-making activity a long time ago, until we finally descended into the dimly lit underground cellars .
There were 10 huge cellars, many of them still under renovation, but we were allowed into one that was allegedly preserved since the time of the Chavchavadzes. This time, a guide led us into the dark and damp enclosure and explained to us how the room condition and temperature was maintained. She also told us that the wine bottles, some of them dating back to as early as the 1400s, have never been touched.
It was quite claustrophobic inside the cellar but I was excited about what we were being told, felt thirsty with the thought that I was in a room full of vintage wines, and for some reason, Edgar Allan Poe came to mind.
In his gripping story of revenge in “The Cask of Amontillado” (1846), Montressor, the storyteller, used a prized wine (Amontillado) to lure his object of revenge, the unsuspecting Fortunato, a wine connoisseur, into the wine vaults where Montressor ruthlessly executed his plan by chaining his drunk enemy to the wall of a small recess in the crypt then, tier after tier, closed it with a wall of stone and mortar as the intoxicated and confused Fortunato still waited to try the Amontillado. A morbid thought but, while the setting of the story was somewhere else in Europe, the damp air and the old brick walls made it easy for my fertile mind to imagine a Fortunato walled in somewhere in the dark portions of these cellars.
A Taste of Georgian Wine
We did not get to see the vineyards or the present winery but the highly regarded dry white Tsinandali wine is still produced in this place and, at the end of the tour, we were treated to wine-tasting of the younger versions inside a room full of Tsinandali and Georgian wines. I am not a wine connoisseur like Fortunato so I had to solicit the advice of the bar tender and my Georgian friends before I chose and bought a bottle of semi-sweet red.
Back at my hotel in Tbilisi, I struggled and resisted with some difficulty, the temptation to open the wine bottle during my last few days in Georgia and so was able to bring home and keep a valuable souvenir from Tsinandali.
-oOo-
“I drink,” he said, “to the buried that repose around us.”
“And I to your long life.”
– The Cask of Amontillado
Related articles
- Road to Kakheti 1: Above the Clouds at Gombori (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
- Road to Kakheti 2: Under the Clouds at Shuamta (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
The buildings look great and the sepia tone adds to the charm.
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Thanks, David.
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Once again, your perspective through the lens allows all of us into this part of the world. Awesome!
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Thanks for the visit and your kind comment, Gina.
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Love the browntones…very cool!
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Thanks, Robin.
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Actually this is Dale…her husband. I do all the blogging and share her talent. Thanks and keep shooting!
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Ooppss.. Thanks for clarifying, Dave. Grateful for the visit and the kind remark.
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I also enjoyed the sepia. I had researched Georgia recently, thinking of teaching english as a second language there. But, thought that perhaps it is not the place for a forward thinking independent woman to live. To visit definitely! When did you go?
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Hello, Sherry. I visited Georgia twice on assignment, first time in fall of 2010 and second in spring of 2011. All my photos about Georgia were taken on those visits but there are still a lot more to photograph. I’d say go and visit. Thanks for dropping by.
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What do you do as a job?
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The short description of what I do is I work with international donors and the governments who receive development aid. This is why I get to travel and do short visits.
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Excellent work!
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wonderful photos and commentary!
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Thanks, stephanie and mehmudah.. 🙂
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There’s so much about this to love: the story, the beautiful photos, the sepia-tones. I love the barrels because I live near Kentucky and they at first reminded me of the Bourbon distilleries down there. But I’m glad this actually about wine since I prefer wine. The entrance to the cellars and the cellars themselves look very much like a Poe tale, as you mentioned. You said the cellar felt claustrophobic. It doesn’t look it according to the photo, but having been in a similar environment, I know it is. Thanks for taking us on this journey.
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I really appreciate it when you leave a comment, Dezra. You always enumerate which photos you like, what you like about them, and how you relate to them. Thanks a lot! 🙂
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Wonderful! I am transported to Telavi 🙂 through your blog.
Wine angel!? Wow!! What Can I say about this? Haha…
I did a right thing by adding your blog’s link on my homepage. It is worth sending my just few readers to your website. Like me, they can learn something from your inspiring blogs on places, things, people and much more. Haha.. 🙂
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Thanks a lot, Kam.
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Lovely shots and I like the story! I don’t know how you resisted all that wine!
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🙂 Good question, Rebecca. I was surprised too that I was able to resist the temptation. Thanks for the kind comment.
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Beautiful, well done!
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Thanks, John.
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love these – kind of a timeless feel to them.
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Thanks, Lois. Glad you liked the treatment..
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Beautiful photos and processing. Great story to accompany.
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Hello, Martina. Thanks for visiting and leaving a kind comment. )
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Such lovely images!
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Cool shots, especially the first.
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Wonderful images as always!
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Thank you very much, Lilly and Madhu..
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Superb photos! You may know that Georgian cemeteries often have tables and benches where families come to eat and drink and remember those that have passed. Great post – I love the sepia affect.
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Hello, Bassa. Yes, a friend told me about the tables and benches in the cemetery. The quote from The Cask of Amontillado would have fitted a cemetery scene very well. 🙂 Thanks for visiting.
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Great shots… the first one really stands out for me… such a great perspective/POV
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Wonderful images again Jessie, I love the lines on those barrels and how they converge into the distance. The figure gives perspective to the size of the barrels also. Excellent processing. I doubt that I could have held back on that bottle of wine 🙂
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This is great work! I love to learn from other people’s stories. Thanks for sharing this. Also Congratz on such a successful blog, its something we all strive for
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that’s awesome! Wine cellars – that’s my thing 🙂 I love a glass of good wine 😀
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Great essay. Can you give advise about traveling in Georgia? without package tours?
Thank! RIck and Karen
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Hello, Rick and Karen. First of all, I’d like to thank you for visiting this blog. I appreciate it. Secondly, I’d like to commend you for choosing Georgia. It’s a good choice especially if you love wines (theirs is not only a wine-making history but a wine-drinking tradition as well!) and you want to experience the Georgian friendliness and religiousness (get ready for an overload of amazing churches wherever you go!). I would recommend the Kakheti region which is close to Tbilisi and where the wine-making tradition was born and Batumi, Georgia’s port city by the Black Sea. Explore Tbilisi, of course. I have visited these places but I still have a long bucket list for Georgia. Check out my other post on this beautiful country.
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