The Mighty Fly River
A mother and her kids paddles through the river on a dugout canoe
River of Life
I spent most of my recent Papua New Guinea trip in the Western Province where the lives of almost the whole population revolve around the mighty Fly River. “The Fly”, which flows mostly through the province and crosses the south-western lowlands before flowing into the Gulf of Papua; is the second longest river in the country, the largest in Oceania, and the largest in the world without a single dam in its catchment. The river took its name from the corvette HMS Fly which discovered it in 1842 under the command of Francis Blackwood.
This is the first of my photo essays on Papua New Guinea.
The Fly River and its tributaries have been providing an indigenous transportation network in the region for centuries.
Smaller dugout canoes ply its inlets and tributaries where locals fish in its waters
Some 120 villages, around 50,000 people, rely on the river and its resources
Many of them live along its banks
Storehouses (mainly for outboard engines and other equipment) are built and maintained along the river
Families refresh themselves from the humid tropical afternoons along the river bank.
Land along the river is mostly flat and covered with thick, fertile alluvial soil.
The flood plains contain subsistence farms of taro, bananas and sago palm -- the staples of the local diet and main sources of income for local farmers
Rubber plantations along the river represent the more sustainable form of agriculture. These 'rubber cakes' are about to be delivered to the market.
But the locals are not alone on the river. Rubber is being transported from the province to as far as Germany.
Huge mining operations upstream also transport copper and gold through the Fly River. The mines account for over half of the entire province's economy and 25.7% of the country's entire export earnings. Mining companies have been responsible for a large amount of the infrastructure in the area.
Transport choppers of these companies are a regular feature of the airspace above the river
But development comes at a high price. Mine operators discharge 80 million tons of contaminated tailings into the river system each year. Chemicals from the tailings killed or contaminated fish, causing harm to animal species and indigenous populations. The dumping changed the riverbed, causing the river to become shallower and develop rapids thereby disrupting indigenous transportation routes. Flooding caused by the raised riverbed left a thick layer of contaminated mud on the flood plains where local subsistence farms used to thrive.
But the Mighty Fly River continues to flow and its indigenous population continues to navigate its waters side by side with the intrepid guests -- both hesitantly acknowledging the environmental horrors that lurk beneath them.
- Dug-out 1 (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
- Children of Papua 1 (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
- Children of Papua 2 (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
- Barefoot in Paradise (travellingartist.wordpress.com)
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Love those houses on stilts. One also sees them on the Congo River.
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Very interesting! Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks, newsferret and scrapydo.
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That is proper travel photography – not only do we see the great pictures, but there is also a story of development, and the growing pains, being superimposed. The last photo really does it for me. Thank for sharing this.
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Hello, Carlos. I really appreciate your comment. This is why I prefer the photo-journalistic format: because I can’t help but cite development issues behind the beautiful images. Thanks a lot.
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Love the photo with the river on it’s own … love the color of the nearly lime green and reflections. Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks a lot, viveka.
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It truly is mighty Captain.
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Thanks again, Kam.
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There is such exotic beauty in Papua New Guinea, what a great opportunity to be able to travel and photograph there. ALL the photos are beautiful telling a story. Your opening photo is perhaps my favorite. Another photo that stands out is fourth from the end. More than anything the cloudscape in that photo intrigues me. The final photo has become a favourite as I write this because of its clouds, its clean composition and its exotic content.
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Hello Joseph. Thanks a lot for your comment. I know that you’re into urban/street photography so I’m flattered that you’re liking these tropical landscapes. Thanks.
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Hi Shutter, What I am really into is enjoying good photos, rather than particular favorite topics. Having said all that the architectural lines of many old and new buildings are a real turn on. Invariably I enjoy the photos you take on your travels.
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The hallmark of a true artist. Thanks again, Joseph.
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You had mentioned in the previous photo Post that malnutrition was rampant. That surprises me because of the tropical area where I would think fish and wildlife to be abundant. THe comments regarding contaminated water spewing into unprotected, pristine waters is disturbing and sad.
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Probably because most of the existing food sources are not sustainable. Hunting, subsistence farming and fishing do not necessary provide a regular supply of food on the table. Yes, it’s sad that this lovely environment is getting destroyed by mining activities. Thanks, T Hollis.
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Beautiful photos, Jessie…and well researched article…thank you.
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Thanks, Scott.
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Jessie, once again you deliver an amazing post, a great story and gorgeous photos. Thanks for sharing. 😀
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Thanks a lot, Shez.
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Excellent essay, Jessie! Powerful ending!
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Thanks a lot, Shiela. Really appreciate a good comment from you.
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Splendid images, Jessie! Aside from the dreamy images of splashing waters and textured flora, it’s quite interesting to see the ‘rubber cakes’ too. What an intriguing landscape, and you’ve documented it so well. Bravo as always!
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Thanks a lot, Tricia. Been following your travels as well although you seem to be moving around SE Asia too much I can’t figure out where you are now. 🙂 Safe travels.
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We’ve jumped even more than you know then, having recently continent-hopped to Europe. 🙂 The next sabbatical destination has yet to be decided, but I still have so many tales and images yet to share from Southeast Asia.
Enjoy the weekend, and thanks, as always, for your photographic inspiration!
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Wonderful pictures as always. The pictures tell the story. The rustic houses remind me of my childhood – plenty of good times running wild in the jungle and sea. 😉
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Thanks a lot, hasayang. Seems like you had an exciting childhood close to nature.
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Amazing images. Did you feel safe as you traveled? I know that Port Moresby has a bad reputation, but I have heard that rural areas are quite OK.
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Yes, the rural areas were quite okay. People are friendly and I went around without hassle although I had some minor incidents related to plane travel and local politics. I’m afraid Port Moresby’s reputation remains true. Thanks for the visit, Nicole.
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Interesting places. Congratulations!
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Wow, I really enjoyed that!
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Thanks, Humbled Pie.
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Thanks for the view of a place most of us probably won’t see personally. Pity the extractive industries seem to always be first to a place. Why can’t environmentalists find these areas first and lock them up for preservation instead of coming in later and decrying the spoilage?
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A lot of nagging, often painful, questions, Mel, and you just raised one of the big ones. Thanks for visiting.
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Outstanding pictures!
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Many thanks.
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Great post. I love these river shots. Great.
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Thanks a lot.
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some insane clicks!!
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Fantastic series
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Thanks a lot, Rebecca. Just halfway through the series.
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Wow . . . gorgeous photos. I feel like I’ve been there.
Thank you for liking my post.
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Great blog Jesse! Thanks for having a look at my blog, I have only just created it so it is a work in progress! loving your photography too! x
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I may never get to this part of our beautiful planet, however you make it possible to explore the beauty through your photos and this blog!
thank you Jesse…awesome!
Glenn, WA, USA
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Hello, Glenn. It’s my pleasure to share my travels and experiences with you. Thanks a lot for visiting and leaving a kind note.
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Awesome photos! Need to go there!
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Please do visit PNG. Personally, I would advise you to stay away from the urban centers and visit the ‘bush’ or rural areas. That’s where’s you’ll really appreciate the true beauty of PNG. Thanks for visiting.
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Dear Sir, Thank you so much for portraying the true beauty of my home!
I come from the Middle Fly Delta of Western Province and am truly impressed with the photographed story line. Love how each photo captures the beauty, life, serenity and unspoken sadness of a paradise succumbing to pollution and a region still far from development. Although lacking basic urban facilities and infrastructure, I still have always loved the Mighty Fly River despite crocodiles, mosquitoes and tales of monsters…I hope you can come back and visit the Mighty Fly River again 🙂
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Dear Brenda. I’m really glad to meet somebody here who comes from Western Province. I have been visiting the province since 2012 and have posted not a few articles about it since then — one can actually say that I fell in love with your province! I have always wanted to cruise on the fly from Daru to Kiunga but that would take several days out of my short visiting schedules so my new target is to someday visit the Middle Fly — your area — particularly Lake Murray. I’ve been trying to do that for the past year but, as you know, getting there quickly is quite a challenge unless you have chartered your own plane. Nevertheless, I have not given up yet and am still positive that I’ll get to see and photograph Lake Murray in the near future. Will be glad to have you as my local contact. You can reach me by e-mail in this address: jessietponce@gmail.com. All the best!
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These pictures are surreal!
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Thanks.
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Jessie: You have a wonderful site here. The images are spectacular. Thanks for stopping by Elm Drive Images…I started following you today..
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Hello, Dan. Thank you so much for returning the visit and for clicking the follow tab. Looking forward to sharing thoughts and photos with you. Regards.
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Awesome pics, you have been to some amazing places!
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Thanks, tommy.
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love this gallery especially
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Thanks!
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