Port Moresby
What About Port Moresby?
Having posted dozens of photos about Papua New Guinea, I was just waiting for one of the readers to ask something like, “What about Port Moresby, what can you show or tell us about it?”. If it did happen, I would have probably blushed (if blushing can be done in a blog) and admit that I have nothing much to say about the country’s capital except that I felt unsafe there and I found the place outrageously expensive; and I have nothing much to show but the images I took as I flew in and out of the place or from the windows of my office or hotel room which were both located many floors above the ground.
It’s not easy to photograph and learn more about a capital city whose notorious reputation makes strolling around as a typical tourist-with-an-expensive-camera sound more like a death wish. Crime rate in this city is staggering. Rape and murder are rampant with the murder rate reportedly three times that of Moscow, and 23 times that of London. “Raskol“ gangs terrorize the streets and control large areas of the city. The local police force appears impotent and is accused of being responsible for many of the atrocities. The 60-90% unemployment rate and the unproductive land around the city are frequently cited as the root causes of all these troubles. If this sounds shocking, Google Port Moresby and you’ll find many more horror stories about the place including being one of the 10 most dangerous cities of the world and being the worst place to live in among 130 world capitals.
Serious Risks
Furthermore, the office I worked with took these security issues very seriously and provides a lengthy security briefing requiring extreme caution for new-comers. For example, my hotel was almost literally just a stone’s throw away from the office (photo on the left) but it was a must that a secured vehicle fetched us every morning and brought us back every afternoon. An office vehicle had to bring me to the airport one early morning and I was shocked to find out that private security personnel were following us in another car. I was, of course, quick to conclude that the security escort was intended not necessarily for me but for the glitzy SUV I was riding. Still not convinced, I secretly ventured out of my hotel premises into the open city streets one weekend, pretending to be just another man on the street (of course I did not wear anything fancy or carry something that would attract attention such as my camera). Thankfully, I did survive the little adventure and was able to get a hearty lunch from a Chinese restaurant but some diners I befriended confirmed the security advice such as don’t walk around alone even at daytime — if you do, don’t show that you are new in town, stay away from certain areas of the city, etc., etc. That finally convinced me that the office’s security precautions were justified and that I was lucky to be spending most of my time in the province where security conditions was much better — most of the time, at least.
Hopeful Trends
But the city is not without potential and it doesn’t mean that I couldn’t get good photos of it even from lofty vantage points. Port Moresby is strategically located between Australia and Southeast Asia, the reason why the Japanese Imperial Army made it a prime target in World War II, and it was already an important trade center even before Admiral Sir Fairfax Moresby claimed the land for Britain in 1873. The country is rich in natural resources, including huge deposits of gold and copper and the currently being developed liquefied natural gas, and, albeit very slowly, this redounds to some development in the capital. Huge construction works are visible when driving around and/or flying in and out of the city — some hopeful indications that conditions in the city may still improve.
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Gorgeous colours, Jessie!
Beautiful.
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Thanks, Karen.
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Wow, the colours in the water are so beautiful can’t stop looking at the first photo. So sad that it is so unsafe it is such a beautiful place
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The country as a whole is rich with natural beauty and cultural diversity. Ironically, it’s in the capital, Port Moresby, where I felt the most insecure even after having visited remote villages in the Western Province. Thanks for the comment, scrapydo.
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It is much the same in South Africa. The big cities are not save at all. The real countryside is more with out these thieves and robbers.
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It’s good that maybe there can be hope for this city that you describe as not very hopeful. The photos are beautiful…how photos can be deceiving.
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The natural and physical beauty of the place, I think, is already there and will most probably stay. It’s just the social problems of the city (criminality, etc.) that has to go away for the place to be perfect. If there are wild, dangerous animals in a jungle paradise; there are too in a beautiful city — in this case it’s man.
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Scary place, sounds like.
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Yeah, it’s scary but, still, it has a natural beauty.
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It does look very beautiful; there must be a moral here, beauty is only skin-deep or something. It is a shame because it looks the kind of place that many people would love to live in.
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I’d compare Port Moresby to a very lovely lady with a horrible character. Physically, Port Moresby is beautiful but the security environment is just terrible. Thanks for the comment, Christine.
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a very interesting documentary on a place i was hardly even aware of – thanks 🙂
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Pleasure is mine, alessandro.
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I don’t think I will put Port Moresby very high on my to do list….so thanks for taking us there …without the risks.
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As I said to scrapydo, the country’s natural beauty and cultural diversity is captivating. It’s a shame that its capital is not so friendly. Thanks for the visit, David.
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Have been in Port Moresly in the late 70s and it was a bit scary all ready then. Photo 7 – is how I remember it. Has changed a lot but .. it’s so many years ago. Great photos.
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That’s interesting, viveka. Because it’s my first time in PNG, I really can’t compare what has changed in Port Moresby. Good that some photos helped you remember how it looked like. Thanks.
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With all the natural resources you mentioned, why the high unemployment? Such a sad situation surrounded by incredible beauty. Stay safe!
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Your question is one of the many things that baffle me as well. The other is the expensiveness of the city compared to other similar cities in the region. I find the prices of food and accommodation too expensive for the kind of environment the city offers. Thanks for the well wishes.
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A good question, first to answer your question I’d like to share some lights on PNG history, if you do not know the highlands of PNG is one of the last frontier on earth to be discovered. In the late 1930’s the Laehy brothers were shocked to find out that people where leaving up in the most rugged mountains of PNG. About 70% of PNG population live up in the Highlands of PNG and the last of the highlands province called Enga & Southern Highlands where just discovered in the 1940’s. I am from the highlands and my grandfather still talks about the first time he saw an aircraft and a car back in the 1950s and 1960s. Even though in 1975 when we got our independence the highlands provinces was still leaving traditionally and in the dark ages. Most educated highlanders are only first and second generation of educated PNGns. It will take another 10-20 years for PNG to have most of the people employed. For the educated population none that I know of is not being employed. Today with free education policy by the government, significant increase in the educated population. PNG has 80% of the population living in rural area and illiterate, this is gradually changing.
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So Pretty! I have to agree with @davidoakesimages.
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🙂 My pleasure to bring you there without the risks 🙂 Thanks, Brooke.
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Glad you are able to document the beauty of Port Moresby despite its despicable reputation. Shame you have to admire city life from afar.
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Thanks, Shiela. The planes and high-rise buildings helped. 🙂
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Sorry to hear you were a virtual prisoner while there, and yet you still managed to pull a few great shots off.
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Thanks, bluelyon.
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Great write up and I like the scenic shots of the city very much.
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Thank you so much, Joseph.
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The water… speechless at how beautiful it is. Makes me more curious about the country.
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Thanks a lot.
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What a shame. It has such an idyllic-looking setting. I wonder if they will ever be able to overcome the crime and turn it into a habitable city.
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My worries exactly. Sometimes I don’t feel safe pulling out my camera in notorious places in Italy and Philippines. Sorry to say that, but with honesty, I do feel so guarded at times.
Great images as always.
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Hi there, am sure that you’ve nominated many awards which you truly deserve, but I just nominated you for the versatile blogger award, to show my appreciation for your beautiful pictures / words.
http://underthefullmoonvan.wordpress.com/2012/06/04/a-surprise/
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Actually my 14th nomination for the Versatile Blogger but it’s still as sweet 🙂 Thank you so much. Have placed you in my list in “my blog awards” page.
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14th nomination! Why am I not surprised! 😀 Love your photos!
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Great images!
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Thanks, Rebecca.
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Hi Jessie!
I love your style and your destinations, it has been a pleasure following you! I have nominated you for a Genuine Blogger Award:
http://insearchofperfect.com/2012/06/06/genuine-blogger-award-and-unearthly-sunset/
Yulia 🙂
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The pleasure is mine, Yulia. Having a good time following your posts and travels as well. And another Genuine Blogger Award? – Woohoo!! Thanks a lot!
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You’ve been nominated by me for the Versatile Blogger’s award. Which also means you won! Check it out — http://teepee12.wordpress.com/2012/06/09/im-a-versatile-blogger-thank-you/ !
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Woohoo!! You’re the lucky 15th person to nominate me for the Versatile Blogger Award — Thank you! I’m honored and I truly appreciate the gesture. I have placed your site on “My Awards” page.
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What a pity, when it is actually quite beautiful. Let’s hope it will get better for the local people and they will no longer feel the need for violence.
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It’s my hope as well. Will be visiting again before the end of this year. Thanks for leaving your thoughts, Debra.
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Hello! I will very soon (in about 20 days) be moving to Borneo, specifically Sarawak province of Malaysia on the island. The entire region is fascinating and I was hoping to roam farther a field. This post sort of just piqued my fascination 😀 thanks! great photographs too. Thank you for the support on my blog, means alot 🙂
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Hello, Ramsha. Sarawak is another place I would like to see and photograph someday. Yeah, I heard the place is special. I look forward to seeing your photos and reading about your adventures there. Safe travels.
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Your welcome to visit! Im always looking for like minded companions that really enjoy a good walk about 🙂
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That’s very kind of you, Ramsha. Will drop you a note if I’m about to appear in Sarawak. 🙂
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yes please feel free to do so 🙂
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Breathtaking photos! It’s nice to dream about places that I will probably never seen in person. Thanks for sharing you’re inspirational photos. I have nominated you for the “One Lovely Blog Award” – http://kallasphotography.wordpress.com/2012/06/10/thank-you/ No need to follow the acceptance rules but I definately wanted to post a link to your site for others to see.
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Thank you so much. I am honored. A link to your site has been permanently recorded in the “My Blog Awards” page of this site. Cheers.
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I couldn’t believe a place that looks so beautiful has a reputation that’s so bad. Shame. 😦
I love going through your posts, your snaps are fantastic. 🙂
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Thank you so much.
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I feel what your saying having been there twice. I am a professional photographer and have been around and concur, the town is not safe. The nature in PNG, is incredible. It’s a shame it is so dangerous.
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I didn’t personally experience getting robbed or something but the stories I heard are enough to make me very cautious in the city. Will actually do another working visit in August. Thanks for the visit, Doug.
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My parents lived for almost 6 years in the Solomons… they went to Port Moresby a few times for work and like you didn’t get to see anything of the city because of very real security fears.
An ex-pat couple they knew lived there and had some awful scares and close shaves which they managed to laugh off until men broke into their home brandishing machetes and tried to rape the wife (their brave hired home security guard got wounded but dragged himself inside in time to shoot two of the men and scare the other one off before they managed to do it) needless to say they started packing the same day and left shortly afterwards. It was a last straw when they couldn’t even feel safe in their own home.
I’ve heard that it’s stunning country … but sadly It’s nowhere near my travel wish list after hearing accounts like these.
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Wow! That’s a horribly scary story! Just adds to the many I’ve heard while in Port Moresby. In fairness, I would say that, for some reason, it’s only in Port Moresby where crimes are this rampant. The country is beautiful and rural towns and remote villages are mostly safe. Thanks for dropping by and leaving a comment.
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First, I’d like to compliment you on your lovely photos. You did a good job capturing down town Port Moresby. I would like to give some perspective though to the comments made and perspectives of the city. I have lived, and currently live, in PM for 2 years. Although it is not easy, 1st world living and the statistics are true, there are many things to enjoy and benefit from in this city as an educated and aware foreigner. Many companies here overly protect their employees, sometimes to extremes. For instance, I commonly walk around the area you spoke of with my infant son in the day time with out security. I am apart of a handful of social groups here and no one that I personally know has had any “incidents” happen to them. Conscious foreigners are mostly removed from such things. I am friends with many local people in the Hanua Bada Village and find them to be very warm, hospitable people. Very much in contrast to the only types of PNG people talked about in circles of foreigners. I have found that many Australians love to bash on PM and often times only share the terrible stories that they’ve heard about- none of which have actually happened to them personally. In reality, it is a very livable place with amazing diving, thriving communities and Melanesian spirit. Though I will say, it does take a spirited person to live here!
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Hello, Lauren. Thanks so much for visiting and for giving a more balanced perspective on Port Moresby based on first-hand experience. I really wish I was able to freely explore the city the way I had the remote villages of the Western Province. But, as I have said, the stern warnings from the office reinforced by extreme security measures, advice I got from people I met, and material from the internet; I got convinced I won’t be able to move as much as I had in other places. Nevertheless, I tried my best to capture the beauty of the place and portray the city from what I learned about it. Glad you more good things to say about PM. I still hope to learn more as I’ll be in the country these next two weeks. Regards.
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Jess, thanks for your story. I’ve always wondered about PM. I had an ex-bf in the 90s who frequented the place as an NGO worker and he’s had stories to tell but not about the dark side of this beautiful place (as I see from your photos). In fact, all I can remember about his stories were jumping off from PM to another dot of an island nearby which they call “Good Enough Island (Goodenough)”. He took photos of topless tribes people in grass skirts and warm smiles, and talked of having flown in from a small plane where the pilot walks barefoot, and they landed on the only airstrip in the island. I think that stirred my curiosity (and grudging inspiration) to start traveling to remote places and capturing different cultures. Too bad the ex wasn’t able to witness the transformed, adventurous me. LOL!
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Hi Jojie. I’m pleasantly surprised by your visit. Most of the things your ex-bf told you are still true. I’ve been to PNG twice this year (featured a series on PNG here) and will need to do 2 or 3 more visits until next year. I’ve seen barefoot pilots and passengers and been stranded in places for aircraft problems not a few times. I’m still excited to get more photos. Have not captured the men in mud masks (only in a region I still have to visit) and topless women (mostly seen performing during festivals and special occasions). I’m not surprised; stories about PNG can really encourage an adventurous lifestyle. Yeah, the ex have lots to regret about, I’m sure. 🙂
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Hey, pleasantly surprised? But am just on a lurk mode around your wonderful site. I’ve read your PNG series, and it makes me all the more eager to visit it one day (with a tiny camera in hand and possibly a pepper spray). Let me see, what else did the ex tell me? That there’s one Pinoy in the island doing well as a good mechanic who owns his own repair shop (talyer) and he’s got good stories to tell. He didn’t tell me about the crime rate in PM though so maybe he was oblivious to it or didn’t want me to worry then. I do envy your trips there but I may be crazy enough to sneak out my hotel room, mingle with the locals and shoot around like I typically do. You won’t need an assistant photographer, do you? LOL
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LOL! You’re too precious to be an assistant photographer, Jojie. Hmmn.. have not met the mechanic Pinoy but there’s one in Daru Island who manages a hotel and is well-known among locals. He took care of me when I got stranded on the island for 2 days. The Pinoy community in PNG is rapidly growing. Daily MLA-POM Air Niugini flights are always full and they have recently added a Cebu-POM route. Some big fishing companies in PNG are co-owned by Pinoys, the Don Bosco nuns operate one of the international schools with Pinoy teachers. A shame I didn’t get to meet with most of them but I’m sure you’ll be able to connect easily when you get there. And then you’ll be able to blend in, Pinoy style.
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Good post. I learn something new and challenging on websites I stumbleupon every day.
It’s always helpful to read through content from other authors and practice a little something from other websites.
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I remember randomly falling on Port Moresby’s Wikipedia article in recent months thinking how far away it was in its corner of the world. How interesting to stumble on your blog and see such familiar photos from such a distant place. All the best.
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I was a bit harsh on Port Moresby in this one, I’m afraid. But I was there again last December and my travel restrictions within the city has not changed! I’m glad I could share with you whatever photos I was able to take of Port Moresby. Regards.
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It’s best to write about something as it was at the time and then reflect on it later, which you’ve done. That’s likely most important. All the best.
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Port Moresby just looks like any other city on the planet. But its rather prickly reputation would deter most tourists from visiting this beautiful country. Such a shame, indeed.
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Yes, I’m quite sad that such a beautiful country is frequently dropped out of the bucket list of potential tourists because of Port Moresby’s reputation. I’m still hopeful that the situation would change for the better soon. Will be travelling to PNG again this June.
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I liked your Photos. But for most dangerous city in the world,i think you should compare Port Moresby with Rio De Janero 🙂 Malenesian People have a Cilization that Awesome and Unique,it’s better if someday you visit to Sepik Province. In Sepik Province you will know,who Melanesian Nation have Awesome and Unique Civilization. For this please you read the book with title “Eden in the East” (name the author are Stephen Oppenheimer).
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Thanks for leaving a note. Yes, it’s unfortunate that Port Moresby has such a reputation. As I said, the city is not without beauty and potential. It just becomes more scary when you Google Port Moresby and you find all these shocking stories. But I agree with you totally about the provinces and the Melanesian People. I have been to some of the remotest villages of Western Province and Bougainville and I never experienced any scary encounters with the locals. They are always friendly and fun-loving. I just regret that I did not get to visit Sepik Province but I do hope to see it on my next visits. Will surely look for the book, Eden in the East. Peace!
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grand papua hotel… nice.
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Excellent article. Very insightful, I have always wanted to go to Papua New Guinea.
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Thanks, Mike. For off-the-beaten-path destinations, PNG should definitely be on top of the list. Safe travels.
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Come to Port Moresby for yourself and experience it yourself and I guarantee you that it isn’t that dangerous as this racist has stated. His statement about security is over exaggerating. PNG is not like a Arab, country or any country in Africa where people carry gun around the street. It is very safe there now compared to in the past, many of my expatriate bosses really enjoy working here in Port Moresby and go around freely in Port Moresby. Though we do have some security concerns in the past now things are changing gradually and Port Moresby developing so fast its becoming safer. I would concur with the blogger about it being most expensive place to be, especially accommodation. After all, PNG has one of the best Harbour in the world, scenic natural beauty, friendly people, and beautiful weather.
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